It began in the worst possible way.
I didn't get the place I wanted.
And hated myself for wanting it, even though past experience usually turns out much better than what was planned. "SO' I thought "How can this possibly be better?" Boy was I shown my ways...
Although sunny in Tel Aviv, as the bus pulled out of Tel Aviv it began pouring down and continued to rain all the way to Jerusalem. "This is not good" I thought.
The rain only slightly slowly down as we pulled into the Jerusalem central bus station. The driver pushed a very reluctant me out, pointing to the rows of wet umbrellas "Yes, Yes here you must ask someone the way to Ein Kerem."
The rain only slightly slowly down as we pulled into the Jerusalem central bus station. The driver pushed a very reluctant me out, pointing to the rows of wet umbrellas "Yes, Yes here you must ask someone the way to Ein Kerem."
So there I was, after asking a few people who wither didn't know or worse sounded they knew the way. I looked again at my google print-out which seemed a cruel joke in this weather. A kind religious girl said "Yes, follow me, take my bus and then catch another one to Hadassah hospital from there you can get to Ein Kerem."
Perfect!
My backpacking experience told me to throw myself into the travelling bug and away went my google print out directions and all. Like a true traveler - I went with the flow.
My backpacking experience told me to throw myself into the travelling bug and away went my google print out directions and all. Like a true traveler - I went with the flow.
The sun came out as I was waiting for my second bus and all looked sunnier and I happily on my way.
Only the bus didn't not come. Thirty minutes later, I was not happily on my way.
Two number 7's had already passed, and a 17 which contrary to the religious girl advice did NOT take me to my destination. So here I was waiting for no. 19...It was Friday and closing towards Shabbat in Jerusalem. Great.
Two number 7's had already passed, and a 17 which contrary to the religious girl advice did NOT take me to my destination. So here I was waiting for no. 19...It was Friday and closing towards Shabbat in Jerusalem. Great.
Finally it comes, "Yes to Haddassah" "Get off at the Monster sculpture."
"I'm not from Jerusalem no idea what Monster sculpture is. "
During the long ride, a passenger tells me the next stop, then another tells me another two stops!
"No. No, Don't listen to them get off at the Haddassah Hospital"
By this time I had missed all my stops, was even advised to get the opposite returning bus. At this point the bus driver waved me over and said get off here, (hosptial) the sisters get off here and go from the parking lot down to Ein Kerem.
Great, I thought, I have to get off the bus before it takes me even further from no-nowhere....
Asking some hospital workers for Ein Kerem, "Yes, yes...straight ahead - all the way.." nodding in a menacing way, menacing "we know but we don't really know" way
So, with my ten-ton backpack reluctantly walking - I am not a walker - I start to hike. I am not a hiker.
Down a steep road, quick check on google map confirms over an hour of walking!!....I try to flag a few cars that go back, finally a car stops, two kids in the back (good safe)
A young man/father on the mobile - I say to him "Ein Kerem?" He tells me its a long walk, "Do I want to walk?" I turned my head from side to side and pathetically confessed "No"
A young man/father on the mobile - I say to him "Ein Kerem?" He tells me its a long walk, "Do I want to walk?" I turned my head from side to side and pathetically confessed "No"
"OK, get in I will take you, no problem, by car it's very close"
"Oh - thank you so much" I didn't worry so much he looked very decent and clean shaven, but mostly importantly of-course, two young kids in the back.
"Oh - thank you so much" I didn't worry so much he looked very decent and clean shaven, but mostly importantly of-course, two young kids in the back.
I said just to the outskirts, but he insisted in taking me right inside the village and even driving pass of some historic marks.
Again, turns out he left me right in front of where i needed to be. Again, following google maps on my mobile I promptly went the opposite way...with my ten-ton backpack. Seriously? ...Yes.
Didn't want to disturb 'busy people' so asked NOT a local who happen to be sitting outside enjoying his ice cream in the rain, he suggested i go to the main road. which i did, then checking my printed out google map, realized I needed to turn back..
Back to where I was dropped off. A sister was waving to me to come up what looked to a ten-ton hunchback, a very steep upward slope. Only hope was my fuel as she may be the Sister I spoke before who comfortingly assured Ein Kerem is only 7 minutes away from
Haddassah!
Yes, indeed, she was wonderful Sister Agatha. beckoning me closer at the same time shooing two lost strangers behind me away. This was Sister Agatha's charm, (I was later to learn)
The convent is charming, the rooms organised and wall to wall carpeted. I met Sister Yoland who was even sweeter than Sister Agatha, perhaps because she was much older and shorter than me ( I am short). She made me feel tall and at the time she was brandishing a whopper bandage on her index finger. The bandage looked bigger than her! Any minute she would topple forward by it's sheer weight!
There were two annoying small dogs that yelped when anyone moved in the yard. They slept together in their carpeted dog kennel outside. The sisters would direct the remote and summoned the electric gates to open. One dog came in and the other went out to poop. That way the Sisters took the dogs out.
Breakfast was sparse. First morning, I declined the egg, just toast, cream cheese and an amazing home made marmalade. Another not my taste, very tarty homemade jam of no visually recognizable origin.
Tea as much and when I liked. Plus toast because they left the bread out.
Did I mention I was the only guest that weekend?
So they asked me when would I like hot water, which I thought was strange and when I would like breakfast. I was the ONLY guest there.
That day was spent, of-course, looking for the Hadassah trail, this time from Ein Kerem. I found THREE ways to Hadassah and a way to Ein Handaq. Actually another entrance to the Hadassah trail without the steep hazardous steps.
Criss-crossing across the hillside finding the best way, shortest, and scenic route to Hadassah. Understanding the locals living just above the hamlet and the Yerushalmi's know it as they know myths... ah yes, I've heard of a trail...once upon a time...
But admittedly this quest, this mistaken route, this wrong turn was the fuel for my burning cause. TO FIND MY WAY. (Hence the title "Weekend to finding my way")
I walked untold seas (uploaded a walking app on this trip)
Found a hidden garden - literally, a B&B called 'Hidden Garden" Then found another hidden garden, behind an intercom-guarded, clasped closed, garish green wicket door. This was the REAL secret garden, Wow! What a garden, of spectacular views over the valleys. Exceptional gardens one better than the other, spread over an abundance of natural fauna and wild indigenous hill top flowers. Eyes feasting. And the blossoms, the blossoms, framing an ancient untold landscape, still secretly whispering in some primordial dialect/tongue.
The Brazilian worker was rather strange if perhaps only lonely? More than three years working on the church grounds. She had the best place of all, over-looking the valleys. I declined any awkward offer of seeing her place for the simple notion I thought it strange she felt inclined to show me the church's cemetery and asking if I was travelling alone? After seeing the cemetery I thanked her and bide her farewell.
That night I had hobbled into bed after walking way way too much according to my app burning frustratingly only 61 calories.
I was unsure about going to the Marc Chagall Windows back in Hadassah Hospital.. Now that I've unlocked the trail and had the shortest passage finally at my disposal.
But I could barely move around my small room. What should I do? I know I will call the synagogue at 7:00 in the morning to ask if they will truly be open at 8:00 I will go!
I called at 7:30. They answered! No, it will not be open at 8:00. It will be open at 8:15
Great!!
Must say being out in the early morning when the blossoms are in full bloom is a magnificent feeling, if only to register you are alive on such a sunny, un raining morning. On my way! to the Chagall windows where reviewers had claimed to be the highlight of his trip!
After asking some bustling souls, a student took me straight thru the university to the synagogue. It didnt see much till the sun started to blast thru. Then the colours, Chagall's movement blazed thru. only one window at a time would came alive, such was the structure, plus for some reason they had bright lights in the synagogue, near the windows!! I asked the keeper to turn them off, she obligingly tried but turned every other light off but not the top upper ones. She told me the best time to enjoy the windows as at 11:00 but then she could turn the light off so....
Second Breakfast, Shabbat was over, there was time to get veggies -
My second morning, I was graced with a sliced tomato and a cucumber - cut in halve. A perfect omelet, cooked by bandaged-finger-Sister Yoland.
I took my breakfast and sat outside, enjoying the exhilarating fresh morning air. The two annoying dogs silenced as they waited, perched for any left-overs from my breakfast.
They rather enjoyed that bitingly bitter jam I mistakenly took too much of yesterday.
My way back in the same vain/vein was just as interesting or entertaining.
So the whole
